First off mandatory grumbling as I appear to have deleted my original draft of this post. This is, I am certain, entirely user-error - but frustrating nonetheless.
A Case for Pants
I have for many years been an avid wearer of dresses and skirts. They’re just so comfortable! However with the introduction of my beautiful ebike into my life I find myself in a position of needing another option.
Around the house I wear comfy lounge pants from Torrid, but they aren’t really the look or vibe I want to be seen outside of the house in.
I’ve long loved Twig and Tale patterns. There’s a pretty inclusive size range (and as of their latest pattern release - the Willow Top) come with all the sizes rather than having to pick the higher or lower end. Praise the sewing gods!
They’re cute, have a lot of advice on getting a good fit, and generally are exactly my personal style as well.
Hedgerow Dungarees - Pattern by Twig and Tale
Rather than pants proper, I opted for overalls as they seem just a biiiiit more Hobbit-coded than regular pants. I went with the capri length because:
A) I am short AF
B) Bike pants are usually short on account of the whole getting tangled thing
Was a good choice! If I wasn’t purely intending them for biking I might have wanted them perhaps an inch longer, but as it is, I’m loving the vibe.
As I wanted to embroider the front (again with patterns from Twig and Tale) I opted for the flat bib and the flat pants as I wasn’t sure how the denim I picked would handle a pleat.
For my next pair, to be made in a nice linen, I think I’m going to try the pleated front to give myself just a liiiiitle more ease.
It wasn’t the wrong choice, they fit great, but I am used to flowy clothing!
Fabric and Notions
The fabric is from Blackbird Fabrics, a favourite local source!
The main fabric is cotton/hemp denim in vintage black. I love the heathered (is that the right word? lol) look of it. It’s got a smidge of stretch which isn’t necessary for the pattern but gives me just a little bit better movement than a traditional denim.
It’s probably a little thicker than the pattern is designed for (hence the choice not to do the pleats in the pants) but did work extremely well IMHO.
For the lining I used this cotton shirting. It’s gorgeous and I think I need to find some top or something to use more of it. Love a plaid.
Thread-wise I used mara 100 in black for the sewing and mara 70 in an offwhite for the top stitching. I’ve gotten braver with top stitching these days and am willing to risk a contrast colour!
For top stitching I’ve learned a slightly heavier thread (the 70 vs the 100) and a longer stitch length (on my machine usually 3.6 or 3.8) gives me the look I’m going for.
Using a foot with a stitch in the ditch or edge guide also helps me a ton with lining it up nicely. (I couldn’t find it for the straps and tried without, not super thrilled. It’s fine but I won’t be making that mistake again.
The elastic waist at the back is chef’s kiss for comfy fit. It gives that ease around the waist that I love in my skirts.
Another detail (apart from the embroidery - next section!) is the rivets added. I did them on the corners of the back pockets, and on the side pockets. My son immediately commented on the cute peekaboo lining for the pockets, and I agree! It’d be a shame if that gorgeous fabric was only on the inside.
Last summer I got a kam-snaps rivet press for setting grommets on a pair of stays I made for a client. It came in super useful here, cutting the holes (sealed with fray check ofc) and then setting the rivets. I’m honestly not sure how I ever did without it. It’s a super niche but handy tool!
✨ Naturally We’re Extra ✨
They would of course have been fine just sewn up as is. But honestly where’s the fun in that? Where’s the joy?
Where’s the WHIMSY?
Twig and Tale has a huge collection of embroidery patterns which I have found great for a newbie like myself! For this, my second attempt at embroidery, I picked the bee pattern in two sizes and a simple honeycomb. I arranged them how I wanted on my computer, printed onto a sheet of paper, and then used my light box to trace onto the washaway embroidery paper.
Next time I’m just going to print straight onto the paper. The ones I got are designed to go through a printer and I think it’ll just be easier. I honestly could not tell you why I didn’t just do that to begin with!
I basted the cut out portion onto a piece of black cotton, then stuck it into my q snap frame. I learned that using two layers of fabric gives a nicer finish for the embroidery, plus it helps me fit oddly shaped pieces into the frame!
For the most part I used the recommended threads, but for the yellow I added an additional strand of DMC Diamante. And for the wings I used a single strand of pearl Diamante. Definitely love the added dimension of the sparkle!
Final Thoughts
I’m really pleased with how they turned out! I took them for a spin on the bike this morning and it was a lot nicer than my lounge pants. Plus I felt less frumpy which was the goal, so yay!
Looking forward to making another pair, which will ofc be embroidered as well... I’m thinking mushrooms?? So many sewing projects lined up at the moment. Ren Faire season is coming!
Long embellished coat for Jacob
Fairy resting wings for me n the girls
Corset for O
Several new tops for myself (the biggest gap in my wardrobe atm)
Costume commission for a client
Corset or stays for myself (if I have the time!)
I guess it’s time to get the ironing board out…
I’d love to hear what craft things you’re up to! Especially if you’re including any bits of whimsy to bring yourself some joy with them.
